10 week Corgi nippy and aggressive?

[Peggy]

Originally Posted by TheGoldenCorgi

The technique I am using now for to "come" is calling his name out and saying come here. And when or if he does I will give him the treat and praise. Does this seem to be of good technique to you guys?

I teach come on leash. You want to make sure they do come and on leash they won't have a choice. Actually I teach come while walking, walk forward, say "Name COME!" in a happy voice, and walk or jog backwards a few steps, reeling in the leash as you go and as the puppy comes to you. Reward with praise and a treat when he gets to you. It'll be awhile before he'll stop doing something he thinks is fun and come off leash.

Never use the come command unless you can enforce it.

Usually how long until I move on to a new command after he learns the other command? He does learn quick but needs reinforcement the next day and following thereafter but until how long should I incorporate a new command?

I teach one command a week, and keep practicing the other commands each time. Again, a class will help you with this. If you can't get to a puppy kindergarten see how soon you can get to a regular basic/beginning obedience class.

I keep preaching classes because I think that a beginner needs the reinforcement and instruction of someone in person. That instructor can see what you're doing and how your puppy is doing and can give advice specific to your case.

Peggy

[Peggy]

Originally Posted by adkmehrman

You have gotten some good advice here but as I think one person suggested using the crate as a punishment (timeout in the crate). I would, and think most people would suggest not doing this because his crate is supposed to someplace where he feels safe and secure not a place to be put ever as a punishment. this kind of defeats the purpose of having a crate at all.

I was the one who recommened the crate for a time out. IMO, puppies and dogs do not come to dislike crates because they are used for time outs. They don't necessarily see a time out as a punishment. The punishment to them is being removed from the fun.

My dogs still go in their crates willingly and on their own with doors open. They eat in them, they travel in them and they sleep in them.

My kids had time outs in their rooms and they still liked their rooms. The same with dogs.

Your opinion is fine too, but IMO, I think using a crate for a time out is just fine.

Your advice about hands is very good.

Peggy

[Clogs]

Similar to Peggy, I used a very long light rope (10 metres) to enforce the "come" command. I'd wait until she was some distance away, then say "Rosie - come!" and immediately begin to pull her in gently but firmly. It was a harder command to get established, but doing this consistently for short periods, often, over a time, she got the hang of what was required. Of all the commands she knows, this is the one that she tends to fall down on from time to time.

I also use Rosie's bed for "time out" She knows very well the difference between "Bedtime" when told at night, and "Go on your bed, you dog!!" for misbehaviour. Sending her to her bed has never made her not like it at night, and indeed, when she sees us brushing our teeth in the evening, she generally puts herself to bed without being told. If she is tired during the day, she often pops off to bed for a wee sleep, too.

[TheGoldenCorgi]

Hmm. So I have read many posts on this thread and it seems like the come command works best with a leash with pulling. I did not want to pull because I read that Corgi's have fragile body/structures and was afraid of injuring him by pulling since he is still young.

As for puppy Kindergarten. Is that generally expensive? I can afford a bit but if its around the ballpark of 500+ then I probably won't be able to.

I think it wouldn't be as much considering that they aren't really working 1 on 1 with the puppy as individual training but rather as a group.

I think trying bitter apple might work but I don't want him to fear or think my hands are nasty tasting. I want him to just stop biting in general. But I guess that will have to wait. I also heard pepper sauce on the skin would cause him not to bite after he tastes the spice.

[Peggy]

Originally Posted by TheGoldenCorgi

Hmm. So I have read many posts on this thread and it seems like the come command works best with a leash with pulling. I did not want to pull because I read that Corgi's have fragile body/structures and was afraid of injuring him by pulling since he is still young.

You don't really pull them but guide the puppy in. YOU are moving too, backwards and the puppy if following you. As the puppy comes towards you, you gather up the leash till the puppy to you. So not pulling, but guiding, gathering and encouraging.

As for puppy Kindergarten. Is that generally expensive? I can afford a bit but if its around the ballpark of 500+ then I probably won't be able to.

500 what? Dollars, heavens NO! Usually around $100 or hopefully less for a 6-8 week course.

I think trying bitter apple might work but I don't want him to fear or think my hands are nasty tasting. I want him to just stop biting in general. But I guess that will have to wait. I also heard pepper sauce on the skin would cause him not to bite after he tastes the spice.

Like with Bitter Apple it's still the taste. Bitter apple won't burn his tounge though and pepper sauce might.

Peggy

[Michael Romanos]

The misconception here is that Corgis are somehow fragile. Young Corgi pups can pull quite solidly as they are being trained to walk with their handler and to heel and they can be pulled forward by a rope or leash quite solidly too.
Corgis are not your toy dogs. You can train a Corgi to come to you in the confines and comforts of your lounge.

[fogebotom]

Lots of good advice here and I bet your mind is swimming now. As a puppy preschool instructor, here's a few things for you.

A puppy is never too young to learn. By the time my own puppies head to their new homes between 10 and 12 weeks, they know their name, come when called, and can sit. I do this regardless of it being a show prospect or a companion.

I start name recognition training as soon as we have a call name. I take each individual puppy to a room by themselves, have good smelly treats in really small sizes. Bending down on my knees near the puppy, I say their name - as soon as they acknowledge me, they get a treat right away. After four or five treats, time for the next victim, er, puppy ;0). Within one or two training sessions, they each will know their name. The next step is looking for focus-we use an exercise called do you wanna do to school and round robin recalls in class.

Do you wanna go to school--you can do this at home. Let your puppy wear his collar and leash, let him get out to the end of the leash or wander a little, once his focus is not on you, say his name-super happy happy voice, bend down inviting the puppy to come to you, might need to give the leash a little pull to direct the puppy in-as soon as the puppy is within arms length, get the good ol smelly treat down at their level and say, good (insert name here) and give the treat.

You can build on all of those exercises as the puppy matures to include sitting in front, asking for a longer focus on you and then slowly asking for more and more before they get the reward. Similar to clicker training, you build a firm foundation and slowly build upwards.

Cindy, the Foggy Bottom/Summit crew and the 6 pack

[fogebotom]

Biting

Yes, puppies do explore with their mouths. It's up to the humans to act as the leader and teach them that it's not appropriate to chew on the humans.

Couple other suggestions---when he goes to chew on you, substitute something else yummy into his mouth, remove your hands form the situation. A nylabone or a kong stuffed with goodies is a great distraction.

I have 3 week old puppies who are just figuring out they have teeth. I did let them suck on my fingers until I felt the first tooth this weekend. Now when they try to chew my fingers, I pick them up, place them in my lap and spend more time in charge with running my finger around their gums, the teeth, inside of the cheeks. This way, they get used to the fact that I can touch their mouths, look inside, inspect and eventually brush their teeth with out a hassle.

I also am babysitting two 3 mo old monsters. They are kind of at the chewing anything stage. If they get real grabby with my hands, they get rolled over and held like a baby for a few seconds, then set down on the floor and a toy thrown away from me. No issues after the first day. If I do have a toy and squeak it to get their attention, if they do get ahold of it, I don't play tug, but let them take it from them. Later on I will ask them to give it to me but will wait till I have more of the control buttons in place from other training before I make it work rather then a game.

Good luck,
Cindy, the Foggy Bottom/Summit crew and the 6 pack

[TheGoldenCorgi]

Definitely great advice.

I must say though. He is almost 11 weeks old and I let him play with a relative's puppy that is about 4 months old (Pekingese).

He has play-fought with the other dog and the play-fighting seemed to have taught bite inhibition very well.

Now he rarely ever bites me. My cuts on the hands have ceased, lol. And if he does put teeth onto skin, its never pressured.

The only thing now is biting the feet when wearing slippers or sandals but I'm slowly teaching him not to do that by tugging on his leash when he does so.

Right now I'm using a collar and a leash. I know there are different types of things you can use to walk your dog and I read in a puppy training magazine that a collar may be too rough for the dog as it causes them to choke.

However, I did make sure it is two finger gap and fits snuggly so that it doesn't become loose and get off his head.

Do you guys think a collar and regular leash will work fine or should I use something that you guys best recommend?

[pmavrich]

I just read an article from the Dog Whisperer. I think it is good advice.

Collar-and-Leash Tips for Mastering the Walk - Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer on Yahoo! Pets

[Peggy]

Originally Posted by TheGoldenCorgi

Do you guys think a collar and regular leash will work fine or should I use something that you guys best recommend?

A collar and leash is fine, in fact that's what I've used with all my puppies and dogs, and what I recommend.

A harness only teaches a dog to pull, and IMO should only be used if there is an injury to the neck.

Peggy

[Clogs]

...however, Rosie has a thick neck and small head ratio, so if I have her collar "two fingers loose" she can slip it. In fact, it has to be tight for her not to slip it when she panics about some scary thing, and I'm not keen on a tight collar. For that reason, I use a harness when she walks. She knows not to pull, and doesn't. The method needs to be suited to the dog, IMHO.

[fogebotom]

Collars

I use martingale or greyhound collars on all of my dogs, well, other then the corgi wanna be collie. On young dogs, similar to human babies, you do need to be careful of the collar used as they still have the small opening in their skull. A soft nylon or cotton buckle collar is perfect until they reach about 4-5 mos old. Then I switch to the martingale. Unlike a choke, it applies pressure all the way around the neck, if fitted correctly, will stop closing and releases quickly when pressure is released. Prong collars work the same way and are much safer then chokes and even head collars. Per a service dog training facility I work with, they never use head collars on young dogs or dogs will little or no training. You can severely damage their necks if not used correctly or the dog is too forceful.

The wanna be dog-Claire the rough collie, has had 8 years plus obedience and usually just wears a rolled leather buckle collar if she wears one at all. Her hair is a huge issue with collars and I spend more time taking out mats then anything, when she wears a collar.

Now not advocating leaving collars of dogs at all-but with the group of dogs here, I only put on collars when we travel or work. They eat each other's collars off, drag each other around by them or since I use safety collars, constantly taking them off.

Cindy and the crew

[Peggy]

Originally Posted by Clogs

...however, Rosie has a thick neck and small head ratio, so if I have her collar "two fingers loose" she can slip it. In fact, it has to be tight for her not to slip it when she panics about some scary thing, and I'm not keen on a tight collar. For that reason, I use a harness when she walks. She knows not to pull, and doesn't. The method needs to be suited to the dog, IMHO.

Are you sure she doesn't need to be on a diet? The reason I ask is that any corgi I've seen with a neck bigger than the head was in need of a diet.

My advice is to 1) put her on a diet, and 2) get a limited slip or martingale collar for her.

You can see limited slip collars here: White Pine Outfitters - Soft Web Collars

I still recommend a collar. With a collar you have more control of your dog. You don't have as much control with a harness and they learn to pull.

And even if nothing else, a slip or training collar (aka "choke" collar) can be used for walking your dog. Used properly they do not choke the dog. However, this type of collar should never be left on your dog when he's unattended. They should only be used when you are with your dog.

Peggy

[Clogs]

Originally Posted by taflar

Are you sure she doesn't need to be on a diet? The reason I ask is that any corgi I've seen with a neck bigger than the head was in need of a diet.

My advice is to 1) put her on a diet, and 2) get a limited slip or martingale collar for her.

You can see limited slip collars here: White Pine Outfitters - Soft Web Collars

I still recommend a collar. With a collar you have more control of your dog. You don't have as much control with a harness and they learn to pull.

And even if nothing else, a slip or training collar (aka "choke" collar) can be used for walking your dog. Used properly they do not choke the dog. However, this type of collar should never be left on your dog when he's unattended. They should only be used when you are with your dog.

Peggy

She is a little overweight at the moment, but even when she is slim, she can still slip her collar, even when it is quite tight.

I'll have a look into those limited slip collars you recommended.